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 Post subject: Master and Margarita Tidbit #5 - Moscow Tour
PostPosted: Sat Aug 11, 2012 5:09 am 
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MOSCOW TOUR

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Just a brief overview of Moscow before I take you on a tour of locations from The Master and Margarita……

It’s the capital city and the most populous federal subject of Russia. The city is a major political, economic, cultural and scientific center in Russia and on the continent. Based on Forbes 2011, Moscow has the largest city of billionaires in the world – 79 as opposed to 58 in New York City. Moscow is the northernmost megacity on Earth, the second most populous city in Europe, after Istanbul, and the 6th largest city proper in the world. It's also the largest city in Russia. Its population, according to the 2010 Census, was 11,503,501. By its territorial expansion on July 1, 2012 southwest into the Moscow Oblast the capital increased its area 2.5 times; from about 1,000 square kilometers (390 sq mi) up to 2,500 square kilometers (970 sq mi), and gained an additional population of 230,000 people.

Moscow is situated on the Moskva River in the Central Federal District of European Russia. In the course of its history the city has served as the capital of a progression of states, from the medieval Grand Duchy of Moscow and the subsequent Tsardom of Russia to the Soviet Union. Moscow is the site of the Moscow Kremlin, an ancient fortress that is today the residence of the Russian president and of the executive branch of the Government of Russia. The Kremlin is also one of several World Heritage Sites in the city. Both chambers of the Russian parliament (the State Duma and the Federation Council) also sit in Moscow.

The city is served by an extensive transit network, which includes four international airports, nine railroad terminals, and one of the deepest underground metro systems in the world, the Moscow Metro, second only to Tokyo in terms of passenger numbers. It is recognized as one of the city's landmarks due to the rich and varied architecture of its 185 stations.

Over time, Moscow has acquired a number of nicknames, most referring to its size and preeminent status within the nation: The Third Rome, The Whitestone One, The First Throne, and The Forty Forties. In old Russian the word "Сорок" (forty) also meant a church administrative district, which consisted of about forty churches. Since 2011 the Moscow Government and NGOs have been trying to promote a new city image for tourists - WowMoscow - aimed at demonstrating its openness and friendliness. The demonym for a Moscow resident is Moskvitch, rendered in English as Muscovite."

Following the Russian Revolution of 1917, on March 12, 1918] Moscow became the capital of the Russian Soviet Federative Socialist Republic and of the Soviet Union less than five years later. During World War II (the period from June 22, 1941, to May 9, 1945 known in Russia as the Great Patriotic War), after the German invasion of the USSR, the Soviet State Defense Committee and the General Staff of the Red Army was located in Moscow.


Click on the thumbnail to see map:

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Map Legend: Note that some of the names of these streets on this map don’t track with the real names. I’m not sure why, but they are in the right place. So you’ll have to trust me. Maybe Angelina can explain why they would be different than Google maps.

1 – Patriarch’s Ponds
2 – Sadovoye Ring
3 - Metropol Hotel
4 - Yermlayevsky Lane and Bronnaya St.
5 – Spiridonovka
6 - Bolshaya Nikitskaya Street
7 – Arbat Square
8 - Ostozhenka Street
9 – Sadovoya St., #50 (The Evil Apartment)
10 – Variety Theater (Theatre Satire)
11 - Ulitsa Myasnitskaya
12 – Tverskaya
13 – Kremlin and Manège
14 – Alexander Garden
15 - Torgsin Store
16 - Novodevichy Convent


1) Chapter 1 (first page):
One hot spring evening, just as the sun was going down, two men appeared at Patriarch’s Ponds.

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Absolutely no one was to be seen, not only by the refreshment stand, but all along the tree-lined path that ran parallel to Malaya Bronnaya Street.




In the 1930s:

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2)
At a time when no one, it seemed, had the strength to breathe, when the sun had left Moscow scorched to a crisp and was collapsing in a dry haze somewhere behind the Sadovoye Ring, no one came out to walk under the lindens, or to sit down on a bench, and the path was deserted.






3) Chapter 2, pg. 34: “But where are your things, Professor?” Berlioz asked in an insinuating tone. “At the Metropole? Where are you staying?”


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1930s

Hotel Metropol today:

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Website:




4) Pg. 35-37:
“Fine, fine,” said Berlioz in an insincerely placating way, and after winking at the dismayed poet, who was by no means enchanted by the idea of guarding the mad German, he made for the exit from Patriarch’s Ponds that was located at the corner of Bronnaya Street and Yermaloyevsky Lane……

Yermolayevsky Lane, view towards corner of Malaya Bronnaya:

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5) Pg. 40:
The threesome tore down the lane in a flash and were on Spiridonovka.


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6) Pg. 41: With great agility the choirmaster corkscrewed himself into a moving bus going to Arbat Square, and disappeared. After losing one of the pack, Ivan focused all his attention on the cat.

Preoccupied with the revolting cat, Ivan almost lost track of the most important one of the three, the professor. But, fortunately, he had not managed to slip away. Ivan caught sight of his gray beret in the midst of the crowd swarming into Bolshaya Nikitskaya or Herzen Street.


7) Twenty seconds after leaving Nikitsky Gates (which I have given up trying to find), he was blinded by the lights on Arbat Square, and a few seconds after that, he was on a dark side street with sloping sidewalks, where he fell with a crash and hit his knee.

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Street View:




8)
Again a brightly lit thoroughfare—Kropotkin Street, then a side-street, then Ostozhenka and yet another side street, bleak, nasty, and poorly lit. It was here that Ivan Nikolayevich finally lost the man who was so important to him. The professor had vanished.

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Ostozhenka Street


Chapter V (first page):
On the ring boulevard there was an old cream-colored two-storey house that stood in the depths of a withered garden which was separated from the sidewalk…..The house was called “Griboyedov House” because it was supposed to have been owned at one time by an aunt of the writer Alexander Sergeyevich Griboyedov.

NOTE: In the annotations for Ch. V, you will see that there was no Griboyedov House. It was meant to evoke Herzen House in St. Petersburg.


9) Chapter IX (first page):
Nikanor Ivanovich Bosoi, chairman of the house committee of 302B Sadovaya Street in Moscow (apartment #50, also called “the evil apartment”)

Apparently the prototype of evil apartment was the apartment number 50 at Bol'shaya Sadovaya ulitsa, 10, where Bulgakov lived in 1921-24. This apartment was a communal apartment corridor type and consisted of several rooms, where different families lived.

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10) Chapter X: Variety Theater

NOTE: Variety Theatre did not exist. It is a fictitious building, but it is apparently based on the Moscow Music Hall from the '20s. Now the Satire Theatre is in its spot. It has an interesting history. It started out in 1917 as a place to hold the Nikitins Circus. Then, after the circus moved out because of no food for the animals, the Moscow Music Hall moved in. Later the music hall was transformed into the Operetta Theatre and only then into the Satire Theatre.

In 1963, the building was completely reconstructed and now looks like a theatre rather than a circus. The Theatre has a dome, the only thing remained after the old building.

In May of 2002, a museum was opened in the building of the Satire Theatre. It is now called Moscow Academic Theatre of Satire.

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11) Chapter XIII, pg. 115:
After winning 100,000, Ivan’s mysterious guest did the following: he bought some books, moved out of his room on Myasnitskaya Street…. “Ugh, what a damned hole that was!”

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Myasnitskaya Street

12)
“She was carrying some hideous, disturbing yellow flowers…….She turned off Tverskaya into a side street and then looked back. Do you know Tverskaya? Thousands of people were walking along Tverskaya, but I assure you, she saw only me and she gave me a look that was not merely anxious, but even pained.”


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Tverskaya Street in the early 20th Century.



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Tverskaya, 1941


13) Chapter XIX, pg. 189:
Minutes later Margarita Nikolyevna was sitting on one of the benches beneath the Kremlin wall, having positioned herself so that she had view of the Manège.


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Kremlin, 1930s

Moscow Manège is a large oblong building which gives its name to the vast Manège Square, which was cleared in the 1930s, adjacent to the more famous Red Square. A manège is an indoor riding academy.

Designed by Spanish engineer Agustín de Betancourt with a unique roof without internal support for 45 m, it was erected from 1817 to 1825 by the Russian architect Joseph Bové, who clothed it in its Neoclassical exterior, an order of Roman Doric columns enclosing bays of arch-headed windows in a blind arcade, painted white and cream yellow. The roof, with its internal rafters and beams exposed, rests on the external columns of the Manège.

The structure was used first as a traditional manège, to house parades of horsemen and a training school for officers. The Manège was large enough to hold an entire infantry regiment—over two thousand soldiers— as well as an invited audience. Since 1831 it has been an exhibition place. During the Soviet years, the building was used as an art gallery. It was there that Nikita Khrushchev (in)famously chided avant-garde artists for promoting degenerate art.

In 2004 the building caught fire and burnt out, killing two firefighters. The wooden beams and rafters collapsed, leaving the walls remaining on site. The official investigation concluded that a short-circuit caused the fire. On February 18, 2005 the restored Manège resumed its activity as an exhibition hall by mounting the same exposition that had been scheduled on the day of its fire.

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Top picture is the original. Bottom is the restored Manège.


Pg. 195:
Margarita quickly thrust her hand into her bag, where, prior to Azazello’s howl, she had hidden the jar, and assured herself that it was still there. Then, without further reflection, she ran hurriedly out of Alexandrovsky Park.

Alexandrovsky (or Alexander) Gardens was one of the first urban public parks in Moscow. The park comprises three separate gardens, which stretch along all the length of the western Kremlin wall for 865 metres (2,838 ft) between the building of the Manège and the Kremlin.

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15) Chapter XXVIII (first page):
Nor can we say at what point they separated, but we do know that approximately fifteen minutes before the fire started on Sadovaya Street, a tall man in a checked suit and a huge black cat showed up at the plate-glass doors of the Torgsin Store at the Smolensk Market.


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This specific Torgsin Store was located at Smolenskaya Square. It still functions as a supermarket today - part of the Gastronom chain.


16) Chapter XXXI (first page):
Woland, Korovyov, and Behemoth sat mounted on black horses, gazing at the city that stretched out on the other side of the river, at the fragmented sun gleaming in the thousands of windows facing westward, toward the gingerbread towers of Novodevichy Convent.

Novodevichy Convent, also known as Bogoroditse-Smolensky Monastery, is probably the best-known cloister of Moscow. Its name, sometimes translated as the New Maidens' Monastery, was devised to differ from an ancient maidens' convent within the Moscow Kremlin. Unlike other Moscow cloisters, it has remained virtually intact since the 17th century. In 2004, it was proclaimed a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

In 1922, the Bolsheviks closed down the Novodevichy Convent (the cathedral was the last to be closed, in 1929) and turned it into the Museum of Women's Emancipation. By 1926, the monastery had been transformed into a history and art museum. In 1934, it became affiliated with the State Historical Museum. Most of its facilities were turned into apartments, which spared the convent from destruction.

In 1943, when Stalin started to make advances to the Russian Orthodox Church during World War II, he sanctioned opening the Moscow Theological Courses at the convent. Next year the program was transformed and became the Moscow Theological Institute. In 1945, the Soviets returned Assumption Cathedral to the believers. The residence of the Metropolitan ofKrutitsy and Kolomna has been located in the Novodevichy Convent since 1980.

In 1994, nuns returned to the convent, which is currently under the authority of the Metropolitan of Krutitsy and Kolomna. Some of the churches and other monastic buildings are still affiliated with the State Historical Museum. In 1995, religious resumed services in the convent on patron saint's days.


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1930s

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Today

Café Margarita

Interestingly, there is a Café in Moscow called Café Margarita, named after Margarita. It just happens to be located at 28 Malaya Bronnaya St., across the street from Patriarch’s Ponds. Here is the street view. Notice the murals on each side of the front door.



This restaurant of 25 years, serves Russian food, is a very “laid back but exuberant” restaurant. Music is a big part of the restaurant. The walls are covered with an eclectic range of books – an ancient History of Russiaperched alongside A Complete Guide to Pathology next to tomes of Lev Tolstoy – and redwood paneling that gives the place a warm and cozy feel. This is a mural on a wall inside the café:

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Sources:

Bloomberg
Bulgakov Museum
Google Maps
Mappery.com
oldstratforduponavon.com
Passport Magazine
Special Collections, University Library, University of California Santa Cruz
Vanhellemont, Jan
Wikipedia



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You can't judge a book by its cover.

The only thing that matters is the ending. It's the most important part of the story.
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 Post subject: Re: Master and Margarita Tidbit #5 - Moscow Tour
PostPosted: Sat Aug 11, 2012 1:14 pm 
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These tidbits have been wonderful, as always!
I watched Anastasia today and am slowly getting psyched to start reading the book! :lol:

So much history and back story. Thanks Liz and Firefly for helping to break it all down! :yes:


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 Post subject: Re: Master and Margarita Tidbit #5 - Moscow Tour
PostPosted: Sat Aug 11, 2012 2:30 pm 
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Thanks, SD. And you're welcome.

These locations will make much more sense once you start reading the book. But try not to look up the references ahead of time. There will be spoilers.
:yikes:



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 Post subject: Re: Master and Margarita Tidbit #5 - Moscow Tour
PostPosted: Sat Aug 11, 2012 5:40 pm 
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That drive around the Sadovoye Ring was impressive - and not only for the scenery. Even if it was very early in the morning, there sure wasn't any traffic - (or traffic lights). The whole city looks open compared to the congestion in the US.
And I love the radial design, with the river running through....bet the whole city looks pretty different in the dead of winter, however.


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 Post subject: Re: Master and Margarita Tidbit #5 - Moscow Tour
PostPosted: Sun Aug 12, 2012 11:59 pm 
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I simply love staring at maps -- the wonders of unexpectedly finding places you've heard or read about. You know you can read about a place and think you understand it, but not really, not without the dimension of the map -- stretched out around you to all sides, there's a river and look at the curve it makes, and race course up to the north and there's the old Romanov Place. And a train station here and over there, and there's where Lenin's funeral train left. And of course the old photos -- the white squat buildings, wide boulevards, parks. I want to leave today for Moscow and then where?

I sometimes wish there was a place where we could see little dioramas of every big city in the world, say 60 or 100 cities, all in one large building, and we could rush from one to the other and note commonalities -- the rivers, the flow of the roads, the mix of narrow alleys and wide prospects. World over, how many cities are river and sea based, and how many grew up in strange places that don't make sense unless you discover the history behind them? (Washington DC sure fits that bill -- building a city in the middle of a mosquito filled swamp!) Will we ever grow cities in really peculiar places now....because we are all connected anyway by little devices that don't care where we live?



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 Post subject: Re: Master and Margarita Tidbit #5 - Moscow Tour
PostPosted: Wed Aug 15, 2012 4:26 pm 
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Its population, according to the 2010 Census, was 11,503,501. By its territorial expansion on July 1, 2012 southwest into the Moscow Oblast the capital increased its area 2.5 times; from about 1,000 square kilometers (390 sq mi) up to 2,500 square kilometers (970 sq mi), and gained an additional population of 230,000 people.


I cannot grasp that size! :-O Or that size population. Amazing! People probably live an entire lifetime and never see the countryside or farm animals.


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 Post subject: Re: Master and Margarita Tidbit #5 - Moscow Tour
PostPosted: Thu Aug 16, 2012 2:15 am 
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nebraska wrote:
People probably live an entire lifetime and never see the countryside or farm animals.

Trust me, I saw it. :-) We aren’t tethered to the city with chains, and many residents of Moscow often travel, spend their vacation in different places including country areas, many of them have country houses, dachas. I have the second house in the village near Moscow too. BTW, the land for a building dachas was gave to the citizens gratis in the USSR, and now here are pretty big categories of citizens, who can get gratuitous land – near big cities and in the depth of Russia. (NB: Soviet system of distribution is a good theme for a tidbit, isn’t it? Taking into consideration, Bulgakov in TMM gave it the big place).

But I have to say, Moscow started to give her residents some troubles as the megapolis not too long ago, about last 3-5 years. It always was the city, pretty comfortable for the life.

I love Moscow, this is my city, which I hope to tell more in this tidbit about. I love it so much, that I almost physically can’t to be in another place more than two week – although I have many journeys, for business and for vacations, and in the world there are so many beautiful places and amazing cities! I agree with Firefly, Park of Cities would be wonderful.



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 Post subject: Re: Master and Margarita Tidbit #5 - Moscow Tour
PostPosted: Thu Aug 16, 2012 9:37 am 
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Thanks for the tidbit. I will be there in a little over two weeks. Will take lots of pictures. Will be fun to compare them with the ones posted here.



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 Post subject: Re: Master and Margarita Tidbit #5 - Moscow Tour
PostPosted: Thu Aug 16, 2012 5:45 pm 
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Angelina, please share whatever you would like about Moscow. We'd love to hear what you have to say.

Shadowydog, how very cool that you should be there at this time. That would add a whole other dimension to your enjoyment of this book. Will you be able to participate in the discussion from there? I imagine we'll be starting somewhere between September 6 and 10th.



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 Post subject: Re: Master and Margarita Tidbit #5 - Moscow Tour
PostPosted: Thu Aug 16, 2012 9:35 pm 
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Liz wrote:
Angelina, please share whatever you would like about Moscow. We'd love to hear what you have to say.

Shadowydog, how very cool that you should be there at this time. That would add a whole other dimension to your enjoyment of this book. Will you be able to participate in the discussion from there? I imagine we'll be starting somewhere between September 6 and 10th.

Make it the 10th.... :bigwink:


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 Post subject: Re: Master and Margarita Tidbit #5 - Moscow Tour
PostPosted: Thu Aug 16, 2012 10:16 pm 
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I should be home on the 16th so will be able to pop in. :ok:



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 Post subject: Re: Master and Margarita Tidbit #5 - Moscow Tour
PostPosted: Fri Aug 17, 2012 2:54 am 
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SnoopyDances wrote:
Liz wrote:
Angelina, please share whatever you would like about Moscow. We'd love to hear what you have to say.

Shadowydog, how very cool that you should be there at this time. That would add a whole other dimension to your enjoyment of this book. Will you be able to participate in the discussion from there? I imagine we'll be starting somewhere between September 6 and 10th.

Make it the 10th.... :bigwink:

Okay, you've twisted my arm. The 10th it is.



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The only thing that matters is the ending. It's the most important part of the story.
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 Post subject: Re: Master and Margarita Tidbit #5 - Moscow Tour
PostPosted: Fri Aug 17, 2012 3:51 am 
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nebraska wrote:
Its population, according to the 2010 Census, was 11,503,501. By its territorial expansion on July 1, 2012 southwest into the Moscow Oblast the capital increased its area 2.5 times; from about 1,000 square kilometers (390 sq mi) up to 2,500 square kilometers (970 sq mi), and gained an additional population of 230,000 people.


I cannot grasp that size! :-O Or that size population. Amazing! People probably live an entire lifetime and never see the countryside or farm animals.

Actually thats true of many British people.


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 Post subject: Re: Master and Margarita Tidbit #5 - Moscow Tour
PostPosted: Fri Aug 17, 2012 3:56 pm 
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Liz wrote:
Angelina, please share whatever you would like about Moscow. We'd love to hear what you have to say.

Yes, I shall (a little bit about TMM places), but now I would like to thank you for a beautiful and very exact tidbit.
A describing of TMM places and photos - it's difficult to do something better. Bulgakov's Moscow is a very "tasty" city, and I think, we can feel this aroma from the tidbit.

Shadowydog, I hope, your journey will be good, and welcome to Moscow! :smiliewithhearts:



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 Post subject: Re: Master and Margarita Tidbit #5 - Moscow Tour
PostPosted: Fri Aug 17, 2012 4:11 pm 
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The building on Ostozhenka Street in the pics above just fascinates me. I would love to be able to walk around/in it.



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